St-John

Annaberg is where the history of these islands becomes concrete. The ruins of a Danish sugar plantation - windmill tower, boiling bench, slave quarters, factory - stand on a hillside above Leinster Bay with an interpretive trail through them, and the National Park Service does not soften what happened here. The windmill tower is climbable and the view runs across to Tortola and the British Virgin Islands. Cultural demonstrations of baking, weaving and cooking run on some days. It takes under an hour, is mostly shaded, and gives context to a trip that is otherwise all beaches.

Cinnamon Bay is a long stretch of sand inside the national park with more room to spread out than Trunk or Maho, and enough wave action to be fun for children without being rough. A small cay sits offshore within easy snorkelling range for stronger swimmers. Behind the beach a short self-guided trail loops through the ruins of a Danish sugar plantation, with the mill and estate house walls standing in the bush - a genuinely interesting half hour that puts the island’s colonial history somewhere children will actually encounter it. Watersports rentals and a campground operate on site.

Hawksnest is the first national park beach on the north shore road and the easiest to reach, with parking essentially on the sand rather than down a trail. Three patches of elkhorn coral sit close inshore, near enough that a child who can swim thirty metres is over reef, and the bay is usually calm. It is smaller and narrower than Trunk Bay and has fewer facilities - restrooms and grills, no snorkel rental - but it is free where Trunk is ticketed, and far less affected by cruise ship days. Sea grape trees give reasonable shade along the back of the beach.

Honeymoon Beach sits on the Caneel Bay side of the national park and is reached either on foot by the Lind Point Trail from Cruz Bay - about a mile and a half, thirty to forty minutes, with real elevation change - or by water taxi. That walk is what keeps the numbers down, and it is also the thing to plan around: it is hot, exposed in stretches, and longer than it sounds. The bay is sheltered and shallow with good snorkelling along the rocks at either end, and there is a concession renting kayaks, paddleboards and floating mats with a bar and grill attached - unusual for a national park beach and very convenient with children. The trail is easy but has some uneven sections and heat, so carry water for the walk.

Maho is the turtle beach. Seagrass beds start almost immediately offshore and green turtles feed on them daily, often within twenty or thirty feet of the sand in water barely deep enough to swim. Spotted eagle rays cruise through regularly too. Because the bay is protected and the water is flat and shallow, this is the most accessible wildlife snorkel in the territory - a cautious child in a mask can see turtles without ever being out of their depth. The road runs right along the beach so access is trivial. Keep the required distance from turtles and never chase or touch them.

Trunk Bay is the beach that appears on every US Virgin Islands poster, and unusually it earns it. The underwater trail is the reason to bring children: a marked route over the reef with plaques anchored to the seabed naming the corals and fish as you pass, in water shallow and calm enough that a competent young swimmer can follow it without stress. Facilities are unusually good for the national park - showers, restrooms, snorkel rental, a snack bar. It is the busiest beach on St. John, so cruise ship days are worth avoiding entirely; check the Charlotte Amalie schedule before choosing your day.